Loy Krathong

I'm away from Mae Sot this weekend to see Loy Krathong in Chiang Mai. It's celebrated everywhere, but CM is probably the most famous. The tradition varies by region. The underlying idea is sending candles representing their bad luck floating away. Most festivals float something with candle in it. Here they tend to be small rafts made of banana leaves or bread. Elsewhere it is half a coconut shell with things in it. Chiang Mai also uses large paper cylinders, closed at the top with a candle at the bottom. This is lit, the upper fills with hot air, and it floats away.

The festival is only beginning, so last night was just a taste of what is to come. We had two very different experiences. We walked along the river and ended up at a temple where several Thai families and a few groups of younger kids were floating palm leaves and sending off the candle-lanterns. Then we headed back to the Tha Pei gate where a bunch of tourists were sending up the airborne lanterns. On the walk home we saw several burned-out lanterns littering the streets, so at least the environmental impact is not too widely spread. Tonight should bring more festivities.

I talk a lot about Burma here, so I'll spend a minute on Thailand. A couple years ago there was a bloodless military coup that sent Thaksin packing. The military handed power promptly to Abhsit. The people's loyalties seem split. Some friends were living here through it all. They said that after the coup there was a definite military presence on the streets, but the soldiers were smiling happily and waving to people, likely on orders. The point is "we are in control but are going to be nice about it." Thailand is a monarchy as well. I'm not sure what the king's powers are, but the people's admiration, respect, devotion etc ensure that he's a political force to contend with regardless of constitutional powers. He's held the post for 60 years and is currently in poor health.

People fear that as his health diminishes so will his stabilizing influence. Tourism is suffering, although none of the westerner's I know here are concerned about safety. Tourism is vital to the Thai economy and everyone on both sides wants to keep from scary people away. I was looking at the web page for a dive shop in Ko Phi Phi this morning and laughed to see, " Forget about the coup -- the diving is great!" scrolling across the top of the page.

Adding to these challenges is that the Thai border with Malaysia is very violent, and Burma is a perennial problem. Tension is mounting in the Northern states and conflict is likely to resume once the rains stop. The drug trade is constant across the Thai-Burma border but has been increasing as the militias export more and more opium to finance the military operations expected to begin soon in Burma's Northern Shan state.

The result of all this is that tensions are increasing all along the border. It doesn't really effect me directly, except that my passport is now being checked at checkpoints. In the past white people were just waved through. The increased scrutiny is causing hardship for the many undocumented persons who are vital to aid operations in the area. Clinic staff are still safe at the clinic but feel like the world outside the fence is even more uncertain.

In other news, I spent last week in the reproductive health inpatient department. It's run very well. I was surprised that they perform breech deliveries (feet or butt first) with good results. They all go straight to c-section. In fact, I didn't even realize it was possible to deliver a breech vaginally. Probably safer to do it surgically, but good to see it done a few times. RH also takes care of babies up to two months, so I saw a lot of pediatrics as well. Next week is outpatient pediatrics.

I'm currently at a Wawee coffee shop in the Nimmonhein part of CM. It's very much like a modern US city except for the language spoken. Even demographically it's about 80% Thai, 20% westerner in here, which could easily be found at home. Next door though is a sign announcing a new Tea, Cake, and Fish Spa. The tea and cake I understand. There are pictures explaining the Fish Spa part. Apparently it is advantageous to be in a tub full of small fish that like to nibble on you. I've experienced that feeling while swimming in lakes at home but never thought it was that enjoyable or beneficial.